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Two 911's - help - Printable Version

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- jdrian - 05-19-2007

I test drove two 1987 911's that I was interested in purchaseing.  The first car had 53,000 miles and maximum performance, sticky tires. When driving the first one I had to really work turning the wheel, when going very slow.  The second car had 86,000miles and high performance tires.The second car took less effort to turn the wheel. There was a noticeable difference between the two. I was wondering which car was operating properly or if  the difference was cause by mileage or tires.  How hard should it be to turn the wheel? Should it feel like work?
    The other issue I noticed was it was easy to miss first gear and instead go into reverse when shifting on the first car. It seemed the wall between first and reverse was missing. I was driving, came to a light,stopped,  shifted into first and found that I was in reverse. Is this a common problem or just a typical 911. The second car had a barrrier between first and reverse. I'm trying to decide between the two cars. Any help is appreciated.
Allan



- michael lang - 05-20-2007

Allan, based on that description there may not be anything wrong with either car. I know when I first got my car, the steering felt very stiff or hard to turn. Each time I did something to my car's suspension (shocks, lowering, tires, etc...) the steering got a little tighter. As far as the trans is concerned, I have absolutely zero problems with mine, the G50 is a fantastic bulletproof gearbox. Mainly why it took me so long to find a car. At the time there weren't that many on the market. Off the top of my head I'd say the shifter bushings are getting worn, that's only a couple hours work and about $40 in parts tops. But, that is just a guess based on what you described. My point is, you may not be comparing "apples to apples & oranges to oranges". The best thing to do if you are torn between the two cars is be completely upfront with both sellers and literally compare both cars side by side. If I were in that predicament I would be judging both cars on an individual basis and deciding which one of the two were more to my liking. It may help you to decide if you are looking at both cars nose to nose. Once you decide, go for the PPI, I'm sure plently of guys up there can give you great recommendations for where to go. Still best of luck.

 



- catchacab - 05-20-2007

If both cars meet your qualifications (color, options, price, condition), run a carfax on both cars (you never know what you will find if you don't look), if the carfax is acceptable to you, then take your favorite one for a PPI.  If the first one fails the PPI, you can always have a PPI done on the second car.  You can also use the PPI to renegotiate the price.  The issues you found are probably minor, however they may point to how the car was driven and maintained.

Spending a few hundred dollars now, can save you thousands in the near future.  A friend of mine was in the process of buying a house, the mortgage company wanted a moisture leakage evaluation done on the stucco.  Cost to my friend, $12,000, he was not happy.  Turns out the house is absorbing water like a sponge.  Mold remediation and correction of the improperly done stucco work $175,000.



- michael lang - 05-20-2007

I definitely agree with the PPI thing. Not so sure about the carfax, never have been sold on it. I see everyday where people tell the bodyshop manager at the dealership where I work "I'll be paying for this myself, I don't want my insurance to find out!" If there is no insurance claim then there is no record of it on file therefore the insurance company has nothing to report. In my opinion, Carfax is just another way of doing an MVA check to track ownership and to make sure the odometer has a correct tracing on it. Go with what "catchacab" said, get the PPI done. Summer is almost here, start enjoying it now.



 




- ccm911 - 05-21-2007

In case you haven't gotten the idea yet......get a pre-purchase inspection.  We can all sit on this forum going back and forth, yet you still may end up with a car that is not optimal.

Get a pre-purchase inspection, and sleep better at night. Big Grin

After all, do you want to drive around and show everyone your new toy, or would you rather describe it to folks while you are on a barstool and your car is in the shop?



- AMoore - 05-23-2007

I have an 87 911 with 110k on it and the steering is stiff.  It got even stiffer when I put a smaller steering wheel on.  Did both cars have stock steering wheels?  Tire difference will also affect the steering.   Also,  I agree with the previous post regarding the G-50 transmission and the bushing but you should get it looked at.  I never come close to going into  reverse unless I push down on the shifter. 

One thing I wanted to point out.  You should not  have to spending more than 25K for a great condition normally aspirated 911.  Wait patiently and you car will come.  Because Iwas patient, I was fortunate engough to buy a beautiful widebody for a lot less than I expected and the car came with an pre sale inspection report from Don Rosen.

Good Luck,

https://picproofs.net/tbranoff/riesen/pages/green-Mini-Dsc_7077.Jpg.php



- michael lang - 05-25-2007

So Allan, what happened to the Carreras?


- michael lang - 05-31-2007

Allan take a look at this one!

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/340585126.html

 



- michael lang - 06-01-2007

Or how about this one!

 

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/car/338739114.html

Looks like it could be a good one for you if it passes PPI

 



- AMoore - 06-04-2007

michael lang wrote:
Quote:Allan take a look at this one!

http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/340585126.html

This one seems very cheap. I hope it is not a case of you get what you pay for. Still worth looking at.