Help! Towing Advice Needed

[JoeP]

Comrades: 

I plan to participate in more DE's this year, and it seems that towing my car to events is the way to go.  Before I make the same mistakes as every other nubie, does anyone have guidance on the following towing considerations?  I am trying to estimate an "all in" cost to compare against continuing to drive my car to every event.

1) Tow Vehicle

>  My street car is a 1996 Impala.  Even though it has a full-frame and weighs 4300 pounds, most northern sources say that even with normal upgrades and a weight distributing hitch, it cannot tow my 911, even on an open trailer.  Of couse, southern trailer experts call me a whuss and say "No problem".

> Assuming that the Impala won't do, do I need a 150, 250, or 350 series truck to pull an open trailer?  (150's are easy to find.)  How about an enclosed trailer?

> Of course, bigger engines are always better, but is there an absolute minimum?

> I am leaning toward buying a full-sized Ford van.  Do they have any downsides versus an SUV or pick-up?  (Aside from my children not wanting to be seen exiting a "dorkmobile"?  Their word, not mine.)

> I will buy a used vehicle.  Should any manufacturers, models, or years be avoided?

2) Storage

> Where do you store a trailer if you cannot keep it at home?   How much does that cost?

3) Trailer

> I am leaning toward an open trailer due to weight, storage, and cost.  Am I being short sighted?

> Is the difference between aluminum and steel trailers overrated?  I've had difficulty getting apples-to-apples comparisons. 

> Are there rental places that offer decent trailers?  I have had spotty success with U-Haul.

Thank you for any real-world advice you can give. 

Joe P.

[catchacab]

Joe,

If you are new to DE, and your car is reliable, drive your car to the track.  See if you like DE, and after doing it for a while (I recommend at least one full season), then start thinking if trailering your car to events is right for you.  If you just go to RTR events, and your car breaks, you can generally count on either some one helping you repair your car, or some one may offer to trailer your car.  I have trailered two fellow RTRs home from the Glen.  Hope I don't have to trailer a third, but if needed, I am more than willing to.

[Graham]

Joe,

Currently I am towing with a SUV that has a V8 in it. 

Pulling an aluminum trailer that I bought second hand after my second year of DE's.  Love it.

Set up works well and has allowed me to purchase a 'track car'.

IF you go for an enclosed trailer, I believe you will need a much longer wheelbase than an SUV can provide (somebody might correct me...).

Storage...heard it is about $50-100/mo depending on where you go.  It is zero bucks and a few beers if you can find a friend that will keep it for you.

Good luck, and don't be surprised with the amount of sheet you can now bring to the track!

-Graham

[Phokaioglaukos]

I think Graham has put his finger on it. The length of the trailer has to be appropriate for the wheelbase of the tow vehicle. For example, the Toyota Sequoia has the same engine and powertrain as the Toyota Tundra giving it the same towing capacity (around 10,000 lbs.), but with a 122" wheelbase it cannot tow as long a trailer safely as the Tundra with a 145" wheelbase. And a F250 short weelbase has a 156" wheelbase.

You can find a guide here: http://www.rvtowingtips.com/how-long.htm

Note that a 24' trailer will be around 31' from coupler to tail (the way the first table woriks) depending on design. You'd want more than a Tundra for that trailer.

[dmano]

Joe,

Call , me about your Chevy it will tow just fine. I can tell you what you need to do a lot less than buying another vehicle to just tow with.

I set up a 1970 Cadillac Cpe Deville Convertable  to tow a 16 foot trail-x trailer and a very heavy 1962 Corvette Vintage Road Racer with a tire rack,  Bob tows all over the East Coast from the Glen to Sebring with no problems.

David  610.639.4400


P/S    I plan on using the El Camino to tow my Mustang next year, then unhook and DE the El Camino since it too is set up to race.

[bobt993]

Joe, 

I think everyone is trying to put forth good advice.   Aluminum is worth the difference if you can spend the extra money.   The aluminum trailers also sell for not much less than you pay for them.  Follow the wheelbase rule, tow capacity ( leave room), and the GVRW for your vehicle makes a difference.   Yes, you can tow with a vehicle considered not capable for it, but you will find local police are now checking vehicles on some of our longer tows. One comes to mind last year in the town of Horseheads just outside Watkins Glen.  A bunch vehicles (NASA race) were pulled over and the tow vehicle specs along with scales were used to issue tickets AND IMPOUND of trailers.   J

Just be safe and smart.  You want a combination of vehicle and trailer that gives you easy control of crosswinds, hill climbs, heavy emergency braking.   Think about your opinion of a slow moving tow vehicle in your way on the road and then decide what gives you piece of mind.