Suggestions for Negative Camber Specs

[Keri Ames]

Anyone have any suggestions on specific specs to add negative camber to a 2010 Boxster?

Any thoughts on this being a good/bad idea? How much instability could this add?

I'd like to try to reduce outside wear during track events but still keep the car "street" drivable. I do understand the negative camber will add an increase to the interior wear.

[the_vetman]

Hi Keri!!

In stock setting, I'd recommend as much negative camber as is humanly possible. Believe me, it's not all that much (2008 BS and 2011 Boxster Spyder)..

You'll definitely save tire wear with more negative camber on the track (and it helps with turn-in!), but you'll need LCAs (lower control arms) in the front to achieve what is needed. Camber plates also work but IMO LCAs are better.

Currently I run -2.5 F and -2.0 R with the Spyder, though I want to get more negative camber in the rear this year if possible. For R-compounds, even more negative camber may be desired (-3 to -3.5) but such set-up may not be street-friendly.

As far as LCAs, you have some choices. GT3 (with trailing arms), RSS (what I have), and elephant racing (personally only know of 1 guy running this). Please note that only front LCAs are needed for many of us - you can achieve decent rear negative camber with stock suspension.

[the_vetman]

Oh, and significant negative camber will make the car more twitchy on the highway. YMMV.. as my 2008 BS is pretty twitchy (i.e. leans along the crown of road) whereas my Spyder is straight and true even with more negative camber than I had on the BS.

I suppose it may all depend on how "hardcore" or track-oriented you want to get.

Best wishes.

[Larry Herman]

What run group are you in, what kind of tires do you run, and what has been done to the suspension (if anything). All those factors need to be taken into account before you just throw some negative camber in it. And depending on what you need, there are plusses and minuses to using GT3 lower control arms.