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01-23-2007, 01:12 PM
The stock wheel shouldn't be an issue coming off. Once you get the car pointing straight in your garage you may want to do a few things before you start on the wheel. I like the long piece of wood that Larry mentions in the prior post or just be careful when you park the car and keep the wheel pointed straight ahead.
You may want to disconnect the battery first. If you don’t mind the horn beeping as you put it all back together you can skip that step.
The next step is to remove the horn pad. Grasp the edges and pull, it’s just pushed into a couple grommets.
Next is the removal of the big nut that holds the wheel to the steering shaft. I think it’s a 27mm but it’s been a while since I’ve done it so don’t hold me to that. If you have someone there to help hold the wheel it would be good as the nut can be pretty tight. I’ve heard people just let the wheel lock hold it from turning but I’d hate to screw something up that way. So, invite a friend over to hold the wheel while you break that nut lose. Ask him what kind of beer he wants before he gets there. Turn the wrench toward the floor not the windshield.
The next task is to get the wheel off of the shaft. Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and yank with all your might. Just kidding, if you do that you’ll most likely hit yourself in the face with the steering wheel. I’ve done five or six steering wheels and everyone came right off. It’s not like your old Chevy.
The hub adapter goes on next. Line up the detent for the turn signal cancellation and position the hub on the shaft. Do not push it all the way down just yet. Once you have the hub in place make sure the bolts that hold the steering wheel line up and will allow for you to put the wheel on straight. You may have to rotate the hub a spline or two to get the wheel straight. I like to put the wire on the horn button and install the button to make sure the horn works before I go any further.
Once you have determined the wheel is straight and the horn works you can button it all up. Pop the horn button out and tighten the nut that holds the hub to the shaft. Then reinstall the horn button. You’re all finished so if you helper has left any beer it’s the perfect time for you to pop one of them open.
Larry also mentions the spacing of the wheel. I’ve moved my wheel much closer to me with the addition of a spacer. It really makes a difference and I would recommend you check that out. The only drawback is the switches don’t lay right at your fingertips like they did with the old wheel. But then I don’t bump them like I used to with the wheel so close to the them.
You may want to disconnect the battery first. If you don’t mind the horn beeping as you put it all back together you can skip that step.
The next step is to remove the horn pad. Grasp the edges and pull, it’s just pushed into a couple grommets.
Next is the removal of the big nut that holds the wheel to the steering shaft. I think it’s a 27mm but it’s been a while since I’ve done it so don’t hold me to that. If you have someone there to help hold the wheel it would be good as the nut can be pretty tight. I’ve heard people just let the wheel lock hold it from turning but I’d hate to screw something up that way. So, invite a friend over to hold the wheel while you break that nut lose. Ask him what kind of beer he wants before he gets there. Turn the wrench toward the floor not the windshield.
The next task is to get the wheel off of the shaft. Grab the wheel at 3 and 9 and yank with all your might. Just kidding, if you do that you’ll most likely hit yourself in the face with the steering wheel. I’ve done five or six steering wheels and everyone came right off. It’s not like your old Chevy.
The hub adapter goes on next. Line up the detent for the turn signal cancellation and position the hub on the shaft. Do not push it all the way down just yet. Once you have the hub in place make sure the bolts that hold the steering wheel line up and will allow for you to put the wheel on straight. You may have to rotate the hub a spline or two to get the wheel straight. I like to put the wire on the horn button and install the button to make sure the horn works before I go any further.
Once you have determined the wheel is straight and the horn works you can button it all up. Pop the horn button out and tighten the nut that holds the hub to the shaft. Then reinstall the horn button. You’re all finished so if you helper has left any beer it’s the perfect time for you to pop one of them open.
Larry also mentions the spacing of the wheel. I’ve moved my wheel much closer to me with the addition of a spacer. It really makes a difference and I would recommend you check that out. The only drawback is the switches don’t lay right at your fingertips like they did with the old wheel. But then I don’t bump them like I used to with the wheel so close to the them.
Michael Andrews