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Riesentöter Forums › Model-Specific › 911 Air-Cooled v
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911 Upgrades

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911 Upgrades
Vytenis Offline
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#1
08-01-2006, 01:09 PM
I have a stock 1987 coupe.  I've had it for a year.  Starting autocross, planning on a DE in September.  I like twisty roads and speed during regular driving.

What modifications will give me the most bang for the buck?  Lowering to Euro height, chip, MAF sensor, exhaust?  I know the list could be endless.  Suggestions?

 
'87 911 Coupe
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Brian Minkin Offline
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#2
08-01-2006, 03:54 PM
On my 1986 I had done the following mods.

Euro Pre Muffler - eliminates the cat and Bursch tuned exhaust - a little louder then stock and very free flow. These two mods made the most difference in power and power band. Really pulled in low and midrange compared to stock.

Mass air flow and matching chip (Autothority). Not as much bang for the buck as the exhuast mods but did step up the HP a few points.

Larger torsion bars and lowering made a significant difference in handling in AX and DE events.  Torsion bars where 22 front and 27 rear.  Also installed new strut inserts and shocks. Still gave an acceptable ride on the street. Larger Sway/Antii Roll Bars will also have significant impact on handling.

As far as DE is concerned, my first advice to people who get the DE bug is that safety equipment should be the first dollars spent. Thats another discussion and should take place in the DE section so it can benifit all those with interest in DE.
1995 993 - Track car
1994 965 - Race car
2002 Boxster - Her car but I get to drive it
2008 Cayenne S - Her daily driver
2006 Ford F-250 crew cab diesel - Porsche Suppport Vehicle & Tow truck
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Mike Andrews Offline
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#3
08-01-2006, 04:35 PM
As far as handling goes, I'd suggest going with a stiffer set of torsion bars and a set of good heavy duty shocks.  How big you go on the bars depends on your tolerance for harshness.  22MM in the front and 28MM (or even 29MM as the later Carrera’s are starting to get heavy) in the rear and then use adjustable sway bars to fine tune is a pretty good street setup.

As far as performance, I'd suggest back dating the exhaust to a SSI system.  Of course the need for a cat needs to be considered.  The early style exhaust system has equal length (well, they are close) primaries and provides very good throttle response.  It doesn't give you that much overall horsepower but it feels like much more.  If you didn't want to go that route then a Euro pre muffler in place of the cat and a free flowing muffler is a good addition.  FWIW, I really liked the sound of the Borla muffler on my 3.2 Carrera.

One modification that I really like, but may not be that much bang for the buck, is wider wheels.  I'm assuming your car came with 6's in the front and 7's in the rear.  Move the 7's to the front and find a set of 9's for the rear.  I stayed with the same tires that were on the car and was very pleased with the improvement.  It may have offered more overall grip by going to larger tires but I would have given up some of the feel of the smaller tires.  Putting the original size tires on the wider wheels reduces the amount of flex in the sidewall which improves turn in.
 And last but not least, the biggest bang for the buck is a new/different steering wheel.  It may not make your car any faster, or handle any better, but the right steering wheel can make all the difference in the way you feel driving your car.
 
Michael Andrews
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Vytenis Offline
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#4
08-02-2006, 02:42 AM
Thanks guys.  Lots to consider,  including the budget!

I would like a throatier exhaust, but not too loud.   I'll check out the exhust notes personally at the next get together.

Will the car pass PA emissions without a cat?

Car has 75K miles.  8K by me.  Probably original Boge struts up front and Bilsteins in rear replaced at about 50K miles.  Recommendations for HD struts?

 

 

 

 
'87 911 Coupe
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Mike Andrews Offline
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#5
08-02-2006, 03:34 AM
If you just want a throatier exhaust note on a budget, find a stock muffler for your car (or use yours) and then have a muffler shop cut it open and remove the packing and place a few strategically placed holes in the baffles.  And of course weld it back together.  If they take their time and are careful they can put all the welds up behind the muffler and you won't be able to see them with the muffler installed.  You could even have them weld a larger tailpipe onto it if you wanted a different look.

My car (1986) passed PA emissions without the cat.

Bilstein makes good shocks.  Stay with HD, not sports.

 
Michael Andrews
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Brian Minkin Offline
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#6
08-02-2006, 04:29 AM
My car also passed emissions without the cat - 1986
1995 993 - Track car
1994 965 - Race car
2002 Boxster - Her car but I get to drive it
2008 Cayenne S - Her daily driver
2006 Ford F-250 crew cab diesel - Porsche Suppport Vehicle & Tow truck
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betegh9 Offline
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#7
08-05-2006, 07:31 AM
My car has NO stickers, other than the ones I put on it.How do I get away with that?.......Get antique or classic tags! Sorry you guys with the Pa PCA tags, you can't get them both in one tag. If you drive your Porsche less than 5k miles per year and have those OLDIE tags, you could save tons of $$$$$ on the stupid stickers and mostly your insurance premium!I don't care if my car passes emissions or not. It passes RTR tech, screams like a raped monkey, and when you hear that Monty mufler rasp out throughout its REV range, it makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up. Who needs a $2000.00 car stereo?Big Grin
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betegh9 Offline
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#8
08-05-2006, 07:47 AM
V,I am also very cost conseous person. You really don't need to do anything to the engine, it has plenty of power for now.I sudgest for you to just lower the car and stiffen the suspenssion like Mike A. says. Next step is to wear out the hell out those street tires you are driving with at some good AX schools and then switch to Toyo RA-1 for street and track. You should be able to get 2 years out of them. These tires have great grip once they are scuffed, but are the best when worn or shaved down to about 4/32 tread.Happy spinning!Cool
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Larry Herman Offline
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#9
08-07-2006, 05:42 PM
Try the nut behind the steering wheel.  Working on that will yield the greatest performance improvement.  For your first track event, good tires, working shocks and a set of performance brake pads will be all that you need.  Save some heartache and do that before you get it teched.  Get a book on performance driving and come to the track with a rudimentary understanding about braking, apexing etc.  It will take you a few seasons before the car is really holding you back from going faster.
Larry Herman
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1994 RS America Club Racer
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1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
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Vytenis Offline
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#10
08-08-2006, 10:29 AM
You're right.  The biggest nut in the car is the most important.  I have rebuilt and or replaced almost all the brake parts and had the rear sway bar mounts rewelded.  I understand that I am only using a fraction of the car's potential.  I will be ready to learn from the best.

The car is however almost 20 years old.  There are times when we are looking for more performance whether it be in acceleration, cornering, or braking.

 
'87 911 Coupe
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